🏯 History & Culture: Ainu, Pioneers, and Travel Manners

The Ainu: Hokkaido's Indigenous People, and a Lens of Respect

Long before the Japanese began settling it in earnest, Hokkaido was the land of the indigenous Ainu. In the Ainu language the island was called 'Ainu Mosir' (the quiet land of humans). They are a people with a distinctive spiritual culture that reveres bears, salmon, and nature as gods (kamuy), and with their own language, songs, dances, and embroidery patterns.

Under long-running assimilation policies the Ainu language grew so endangered that UNESCO classified it as 'critically endangered,' and in 2019 the Japanese government officially recognized the Ainu as an 'indigenous people' in law through the Ainu Policy Promotion Act. For today's traveler, then, Ainu culture is not a 'spectacle' but something to learn about with respect.

The heart of all this is Upopoy (the National Ainu Museum and Park) in Shiraoi. The name means 'singing together' in the Ainu language. It's a national facility that brings together the National Ainu Museum, an outdoor traditional village (kotan), and a performance hall in one place, and it opened in July 2020.

It's about a 30-minute drive from the Noboribetsu hot springs, so we recommend slotting it into a Noboribetsu itinerary as a half-day course. That said, there's a lot of outdoor walking in midwinter, so warm clothing for the baby and preparing for a stroller on snowy paths are essential.

Sapporo's Pioneer History: How the Grid City Was Born

Sapporo's neat, checkerboard streets are no accident. In 1869 the Meiji government renamed 'Ezochi' as 'Hokkaido' and established a development agency called the Kaitakushi (Hokkaido Development Commission). The goals were to develop the north and to keep Russia in check.

The lack of technical know-how was filled by foreign advisors. Over the 1860s–70s some 70 or so foreign experts were invited, many of them American. A representative figure was Horace Capron, who had served as the U.S. Commissioner of Agriculture (an advisor from 1871 to 1875). At the time the U.S. had no cabinet-level Department of Agriculture, so 'Commissioner of Agriculture' is the accurate title. On their advice, Sapporo came to have an American-style grid city plan centered on Odori Park.

The symbol of education is the Sapporo Agricultural College (today's Hokkaido University), which opened in 1876. The American Dr. William Clark, its first vice-principal, left behind the words 'Boys, be ambitious,' which are still used today almost as a slogan for Hokkaido.

The Kaitakushi was abolished in 1882, but the administrative center remained. The Former Hokkaido Government Office Building (Akarenga, 赤れんが), completed in 1888, is a neo-Baroque structure built from about 2.5 million bricks and is one of Sapporo's signature landmarks.

Beer, Dairy, and the 1972 Olympics — Three Pillars of Modern Sapporo

The Kaitakushi also fostered industry directly. With the establishment of the Kaitakushi beer brewery in 1876, Sapporo became the birthplace of beer in Japan. German-style brewing techniques were the foundation, and that lineage carries on today as 'Sapporo Beer.' The red-brick Sapporo Beer Museum (the building was constructed in 1890 as a sugar refinery, and opened as a museum in 1987) is the only beer museum in Japan.

Dairy farming, too, was a creation of the Kaitakushi. Under the guidance of the American Edwin Dun, ranches were established in Makomanai and elsewhere, and this became the starting point of 'Hokkaido, the dairy kingdom.' It's the root of the rich milk, cheese, and soft-serve ice cream we enjoy.

And in 1972, Sapporo hosted Asia's first Winter Olympics (February 3–13). The subways, roads, and ski jump (Okurayama) developed for the Games became the foundation of Sapporo's present-day infrastructure.

Otaru: The Canal and the 'Wall Street of the North'

About 30–40 minutes from Sapporo by JR. Otaru was a port city that flourished on herring (nishin) and trade. From the Meiji to the Taisho era, banks lined its streets, and it was such a center of Hokkaido's economy that it was called the 'Wall Street of the North' (北のウォール街).

The traces of that era are streets of stone and brick buildings such as the Bank of Japan Otaru Branch (1912, now the Bank of Japan Otaru Museum), and the Otaru Canal, completed in 1923. Having lost its logistics function, it was once at risk of being filled in, but a preservation movement in the 1980s saved it, creating the romantic canal scenery of today.

On a winter evening, when the gas lamps light up and the snow piles up, the canal area looks like a painting. That said, the canal-side is windy and the ground is slippery. A baby carrier and anti-slip shoes are essential, and there are many stretches where a baby carrier is easier than a stroller. (Per official JR Hokkaido information, Sapporo to Otaru takes about 33–41 minutes on the Rapid Airport, ¥800 one way. Timetables and fares are subject to revision.)

December's Winter Culture: Not the Snow Festival — It's the 'Illuminations'!

This is the point people get most confused about. The Sapporo Snow Festival (雪まつり) is in early February. There is no Snow Festival in December, when we're going. Instead, December is the season of lights and Christmas.

• Sapporo White Illumination: An event that adorns Odori Park, the street in front of the station, and Minami-1-jo Street with lights. It usually starts in late November.
• Munich Christmas Market: A German-style market themed on Sapporo's sister city, Munich, sets up in Odori Park (Nishi-2-chome). It's full of Glühwein (mulled wine), sausages, and ornaments. Usually from late November to around December 25.

The illumination and market in Odori Park generally end around December 25 (in the most recent 2025–26 season they started on Nov 21 and the Odori venue closed on Dec 25), so if the Christmas market is your goal, it's safest to schedule it toward the front of your trip (before Christmas). Some stretches, such as the street in front of the station and Minami-1-jo, continue afterward into February or March.

The exact dates and locations for 2026 have not yet been announced. The dates above are based on the patterns of the most recent season (2025–26), so be sure to check the official Sapporo tourism website before you visit.

Travel Manners & Safety — Must-Know Japanese Phrases

In Japan, 'not causing trouble for others (meiwaku)' is the basic sentiment. Just keeping a few things in mind makes families with a baby welcome.

• Taking off your shoes: You take off your shoes at the entrance of ryokan, some restaurants, hot springs, and indoor play areas. If shoes are lined up neatly, it's a sign that this is a place to remove them.
• Lining up: People queue everywhere — train platforms, elevators, and in front of shops. No cutting in line.
• Quiet: No phone calls on trains or buses, and keep conversations soft. If the baby cries, don't panic — just step over to the end of the car or the connecting passage for a moment, and that's plenty courteous.
• Trash: There are almost no street trash cans. As a rule, carry a bag for diapers and wet wipes and take them back to your hotel.
• Hot-spring etiquette: Wash your body clean before bathing, and don't let your towel or hair touch the water. If you have tattoos, reserving a private family bath (kashikiri) or an in-room open-air bath puts your mind at ease. At many places, infants who aren't out of diapers or who are wearing diapers are prohibited or restricted from entering the large communal baths (rules differ by facility, so check when you book). If you're traveling with a baby, we recommend a private family bath or an in-room open-air bath.
• Restaurants: Refrain from being loud or holding seats for long. There's no tipping culture (it actually makes people uncomfortable).

Exchange rates were converted at ¥100 ≈ 920 KRW (real-time rates fluctuate, so for reference only), and we recommend reconfirming all prices and business information before you visit.

At a Glance

Timeline

Useful Words

Good to Know